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eBay 1.Fit For: 1995-2000 Chevrolet K2500 1995-1999 Chevrolet K2500 Suburban 1995-2000 Chevrolet K3500 1995-1999 Chevrolet Tahoe 1995-2000 GMC K2500 1995-1999 GMC K2500 Suburban 1995-2000 GMC K3500 1995-1997 GMC Yukon 2.Package Includes: 2x Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeve – 11/16 Inch x 18 Threads -ES2004S 2x Front Outer Tie Rod End -ES2836RL 2x Front Inner Tie Rod End -ES2838RL 2x Front Lower Ball Joint – Stamped Arm 45.79mm -K6477 1x Idler Arm -K6447 1x Pitman Arm -K6335 Notes 10x Front Lower Ball Joint Idler Pitman Arm Tie Rod For 1995-99 Chevrolet Tahoe 1.Fit For: 1995-2000 Chevrolet K2500 1995-1999 Chevrolet K2500 Suburban 1995-2000 Chevrolet K3500 1995-1999 Chevrolet Tahoe 1995-2000 GMC K2500 1995-1999 GMC K2500 Suburban 1995-2000 GMC K3500 1995-1997 GMC Yukon 2.Package Includes: 2x Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeve – 11/16 Inch x 18 Threads -ES2004S 2x Front Outer Tie Rod End -ES2836RL 2x Front Inner Tie Rod End -ES2838RL 2x Front Lower Ball Joint – Stamped Arm 45.79mm -K6477 1x Idler Arm -K6447 1x Pitman Arm -K6335 Notes (1).Please check the fitment chart above before payment making sure all the suspension parts listed on this page are compatible with your automobile. (2).Please refer to Moog official website before narrowing down your search so as to avoid unnecessary item not as described return requests. (3).Please contact our customer services for targeted discount after all the items are received if you have reached any targeted discount thresholds, the terms of which is at the bottom of this page. If you are interested with any other suspension parts, please click and save our store. Ball Joint Ball joints may be grouped into two classifications, load carrying and non-load carrying. Ball joints may be manufactured with forged, stamped, cold-formed, or screw-machined housings. The coil spring is seated on the control arm to which the load-carrying ball joint is attached. For example, when the coil spring is mounted between the lower control arm and the chassis, the lower ball joint is a load-carrying joint. In a torsion bar suspension, the load-carrying ball joint is mounted on the control arm to which the torsion bar is attached. A load-carrying ball joint supports the vehicle weight. Ball Joint Replacement Guideline: If there is a knocking or clunking noise in the area of the front axle when the car is traveling over road bumps, potholes or curbs, then there is usually a defect in a component of the wheel suspension. Picture(A) The side of the front axle from which the (vibration) noise is emanating can already be determined during a test drive. The type of noise also already provides certain indications for maintenance regarding which components might be faulty. Picture(B) 1.Raise the vehicle and remove the front wheels. 2.To loosen the fastening screws and fixing nuts of the compression ball joint more easily, spray them with rust remover and allow to act for a few minutes. Picture(C) 3.Loosen the fastening screws of the broken ball joint on the control arm and remove the nuts. Picture(D) 4.Loosen and remove the fixing nut of the ball joint on the steering knuckle. Tip:If the ball stud rotates, hold the ball stud in place with a hexagon socket. Picture(E) 5.Remove the bad or worn ball joint from the control arm. 6.Loosen the compression ball joint on the steering knuckle using a suitable special tool. Picture(F) 7.Clean the cone connection. Tip:For better sealing and durability of the ball joint sleeve, a little silicone grease can be applied to the contact surface. Picture(G) 8.Insert new compression ball joint in the control arm and steering knuckle and tighten with new fixing nuts. 9.Reinstall front wheels. Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel studs to the tightening torque specified by the vehicle manufacturer. 10.Measure the chassis and adjust it using the various holes on the compression ball joint if necessary. 11.Finally, carry out a test drive. Tie-Rod End The tie-rod assemblies connect the center link to the steering arms, which are bolted to the front steering knuckles. In some front suspensions, the steering arms are part of the steering knuckle; in other front suspension systems, the steering arms are bolted to the knuckle. A ball socket is mounted on the inner end to each tie-rod, and a tapered stud on this socket is mounted in a center link opening. A castellated nut and cotter pin retain the tie-rods to the center link. A threaded sleeve is mounted on the outer end of each tie-rod, and a tie-rod end is threaded into the outer end of this sleeve. Outer Tie-Rod End Some outer tie-rod ends have a ball stud that is surrounded by an upper hardened steel bearing and a high-strength polymer lower bearing seat. The hardened steel upper bearing provides strength and durability, and the polymer lower bearing seat provides smooth rotation of the ball stud in the tie-rod end. An internal spring between the polymer lower bearing seat supplies self-adjusting action and constant tension on this seat. A seal in the upper part of the ball joint housing seals the ball stud to prevent contaminants from entering the tie-rod end. These tie-rod ends are installed on some original equipment manufacturer’s vehicles, and they are available as replacement tie-rod ends on most vehicles. Inner Tie-Rod End Some inner tie-rod ends contain a bolt and bushing. These tie-rod ends are threaded onto the rack. Since the rack is connected directly to the tie-rods, the rack replaces the center link in a parallelogram steering linkage. Some inner tie-rod ends have a mirror-finished ball and a high-strength polymer bearing to ensure low torque, minimal friction, and extended life. A hardened alloy steel rod extends from the ball to the outer tie-rod end and provides maximum strength and durability. Tie-Rod End Replacement Guideline: If you feel a bump in the steering when driving over road bumps or curbs, this might be due to worn tie rod ends or inner tie rods. Clicking noises during sudden steering movements can also be symptoms of a defective tie rod. In order to determine the exact cause and replace the defective tie rod, the car must be elevated with a vehicle lift in order to be examined more closely. This useful tip applies to the exchange of tie rod ends and inner tie rods, which together form the so-called tie rod. Picture(A) Note: Cleanliness is extremely important when working on the power steering. Incorrect work and contamination can lead to leakage and, in the worst case, to failure of the steering assistance. 1.Lift the vehicle and dismount the front axle wheels. 2.Spray the fastening nut of the tie rod end with rust remover and leave it on for a few minutes. Picture(B) 3.Dismount the front underride guard. Picture(C) 4.Loosen the fastening nut from the tie rod and remove it completely. 5.Remove the tie rod end from the steering knuckle using an appropriate ball joint separator. Picture(D) 6.Remove the clamp of the bellow on the steering gear. 7.Push the bellow towards the tie rod end. Picture(E) 8.Unscrew the inner tie rod from the rack. 9.Clean the sealing face of the bellow at the steering gear. Picture(F) 10.Clean the lug of the rubber contact surface of the ball joint in the steering knuckle. Note:Always use new self-locking nuts and bolts for a reliable repair. 11.Screw the new inner tie rod into the rack and tighten it with the tightening torque that has been specified by the vehicle manufacturer. Picture(G) 12.Mount the bellow and close the clamps with the appropriate special tool. Note:Incorrect mounting of the bellow can lead to corrosion of the rack: the steering gear starts leaking which can lead to a failure in the steering assistance. Picture(H) 13.Secure the ball joint in the steering knuckle and mount the nut. Please observe the tightening torque suggested by the vehicle manufacturer. Note:During mounting, the ball stud should not turn within the ball joint. This can cause damage inside the ball joint and can lead to early failure. Tip:Secure the ball stud against twisting with a suitable tool. Picture(I) 14.Mount the front underride guard. 15.Mount the front wheels and tighten them with the tightening torque recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. 16.Align the wheels and adjust them if necessary. Observe the vehicle manufacturer specifications. 17.Perform a test drive. Note:When performing the test drive, pay special attention to the handling while cornering and listen for possible noise emission. Frequently Asked Questions (1).How will I know that I have to renew my ball joint parts? Or replace them? If your ball joint fails, you will listen to a strange sound while driving. And that sound may help you to realize that your ball joint has failed and you have to renew them. (2).What happens if a ball joint breaks? When a ball joint breaks, you will hear a mysterious noise inside your car wheel. Your car tire will wear-out since your alignment will be broken, and you will feel the car getting out of control. If the ball joint breaks completely, it can be separated, and things can turn sour quickly. The wheel will stop being nice and can even steer you off the road. It can be serious. Broken ball joints will seriously affect the steering and suspension. It can even result in your wheel falling off the car. (3).Are worn ball joints dangerous? Yes, it can be quite dangerous. Because, a worn ball joint causes suspension damage, inspection failure, and breakage of related parts. It might make your front suspension come apart while driving, so the wheels move in whatever direction inertia takes them. That can lead to a fatal accident. (4).What happens if I don’t replace ball joints? If you don’t want to replace your ball joints, then get ready to experience some serious issues. The old ball joints cause mysterious clunking noise or drifting steering. Once they are worn-out, it will seriously affect your steering and suspension. However, you do not need to change the ball joints if it is new. (5).Do I need to grease new ball joints? I would say it will be a wise decision if you grease your new ball joints. At least I will always grease a new one after the installation. Greasing a new ball joint will make it stronger and extend its lifetime because there is a minimal amount of grease inside. I suggest you do so after the first installation. Follow the instruction card. (6).When to replace tie rod ends? Tie rods can last for years and years and some car owners may never have to replace them at all, but their longevity can be affected by certain driving conditions. Driving obstacles like potholes, poor road conditions or even minor accidents can cause tie rods to work incorrectly. Because of their importance and high usage, some people recommend having the tie rods inspected regularly. (7).Why should I get my tie rods inspected on a regular basis? If you don’t get your tie rods inspected on a regular basis, there are some warning signs to watch (and listen) for. If your vehicle pulls to one side while driving, or when braking, it’s possible that bad tie rods may be the culprit. Your vehicle’s tires will also show uneven wear on the inside and outside edge of the tire when there’s a tire rod issue. However, one of the most noticeable signs of tie rods going bad will be a knocking sound coming from the front end of the vehicle when you turn into a parking space, or some other low speed, tight turning situation. (8).Vibrations One of the first symptoms that your tie rods are damaged or breaking is that the steering wheel will vibrate slightly. This is especially prevalent when you are speeding up or turning. This happens because the steering wheel is losing its control over the tires, causing the steering wheel to shimmy as you drive. (9).Shaking As the tie rods become further damaged, you will start to notice that the car itself will start to shake. This happens because the tires may start to wobble without you having full control over them. Although you should take your car into a mechanic at the first sign of tie rod problems, if you experience your car shaking you could be at risk for serious tie rod damage-which can cause accidents. Take your car into a mechanic if you experience this tie rod symptom. (10).Wandering If your tie rods continue to go unchecked or unfixed, the rods can completely break. This can cause you to lose all control of your car, possibly resulting in an accident. When this occurs, the car will may “wander” as you drive. At this point, the steering wheel will have no control over the tires and the tires will start moving independently, causing the car to drift while you are driving. If this happens while you are on a freeway or busy road, you and others could be at serious risk of an accident. If you experience wandering, stop your car, call a two truck and take your car to the nearest mechanic. Item Specifics Placement on Vehicle Front Type Ball Joint Universal Fitment No Included Hardware Mounting Hardware Custom Bundle Yes Interchange Part Number ES2004S,ES2836RL,ES2838RL,K6477,K6447,K6335 Superseded Part Number Control Arm Car,Suspension Arm,lower ball joints replacement OE/OEM Part Number Ball Joints Kit Assembly and Steering Tie Rod Ends Linkages Cross Reference Part Number Front Driver and Passenger Side Replacement Manufacturer Warranty 10 Year Brand Auto-brakemotive Manufacturer Part Number TA83561601P Adjustable Yes Material Alloy Steel Kit or Single Part Kit Greasable or Sealed Greasable OE Spec or Performance/Custom OE Spec Surface Finish Polished, Rust Protected Quantity 10Pcs Items Included Tie Rod End, Ball Joint, Idler Pitman Arm Payment · PayPal preferred.You can open a Paypal account at www.paypal.com Shipping a. Import duties, taxes and charges are not included in the item price or shipping charges. These charges are the buyers responsibility. b. Please check with your country customs office to determine what these additional costs will be prior to bidding/buying. Returns ①no information what is wrong with item ⑤ don’t like · Items that have been installed or altered are non-returnable but it must be reported to us immediately. Contact Us · If you are satisfied with the product you received, wish you can leave us a feedback. DESCRIPTION PAYMENT SHIPPING RETURN POLICY CONTACT US 10x Front Lower Ball Joint Idler Pitman Arm Tie Rod For 1995-99 Chevrolet Tahoe 1.Fit For: 1995-2000 Chevrolet K2500 1995-1999 Chevrolet K2500 Suburban 1995-2000 Chevrolet K3500 1995-1999 Chevrolet Tahoe 1995-2000 GMC K2500 1995-1999 GMC K2500 Suburban 1995-2000 GMC K3500 1995-1997 GMC Yukon 2.Package Includes: 2x Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeve – 11/16 Inch x 18 Threads -ES2004S 2x Front Outer Tie Rod End -ES2836RL 2x Front Inner Tie Rod End -ES2838RL 2x Front Lower Ball Joint – Stamped Arm 45.79mm -K6477 1x Idler Arm -K6447 1x Pitman Arm -K6335 Notes (1).Please check the fitment chart above before payment making sure all the suspension parts listed on this page are compatible with your automobile. (2).Please refer to Moog official website before narrowing down your search so as to avoid unnecessary item not as described return requests. (3).Please contact our customer services for targeted discount after all the items are received if you have reached any targeted discount thresholds, the terms of which is at the bottom of this page. If you are interested with any other suspension parts, please click and save our store. Ball Joint Ball joints may be grouped into two classifications, load carrying and non-load carrying. Ball joints may be manufactured with forged, stamped, cold-formed, or screw-machined housings. The coil spring is seated on the control arm to which the load-carrying ball joint is attached. For example, when the coil spring is mounted between the lower control arm and the chassis, the lower ball joint is a load-carrying joint. In a torsion bar suspension, the load-carrying ball joint is mounted on the control arm to which the torsion bar is attached. A load-carrying ball joint supports the vehicle weight. Ball Joint Replacement Guideline: If there is a knocking or clunking noise in the area of the front axle when the car is traveling over road bumps, potholes or curbs, then there is usually a defect in a component of the wheel suspension. Picture(A) The side of the front axle from which the (vibration) noise is emanating can already be determined during a test drive. The type of noise also already provides certain indications for maintenance regarding which components might be faulty. Picture(B) 1.Raise the vehicle and remove the front wheels. 2.To loosen the fastening screws and fixing nuts of the compression ball joint more easily, spray them with rust remover and allow to act for a few minutes. Picture(C) 3.Loosen the fastening screws of the broken ball joint on the control arm and remove the nuts. Picture(D) 4.Loosen and remove the fixing nut of the ball joint on the steering knuckle. Tip:If the ball stud rotates, hold the ball stud in place with a hexagon socket. Picture(E) 5.Remove the bad or worn ball joint from the control arm. 6.Loosen the compression ball joint on the steering knuckle using a suitable special tool. Picture(F) 7.Clean the cone connection. Tip:For better sealing and durability of the ball joint sleeve, a little silicone grease can be applied to the contact surface. Picture(G) 8.Insert new compression ball joint in the control arm and steering knuckle and tighten with new fixing nuts. 9.Reinstall front wheels. Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel studs to the tightening torque specified by the vehicle manufacturer. 10.Measure the chassis and adjust it using the various holes on the compression ball joint if necessary. 11.Finally, carry out a test drive. Tie-Rod End The tie-rod assemblies connect the center link to the steering arms, which are bolted to the front steering knuckles. In some front suspensions, the steering arms are part of the steering knuckle; in other front suspension systems, the steering arms are bolted to the knuckle. A ball socket is mounted on the inner end to each tie-rod, and a tapered stud on this socket is mounted in a center link opening. A castellated nut and cotter pin retain the tie-rods to the center link. A threaded sleeve is mounted on the outer end of each tie-rod, and a tie-rod end is threaded into the outer end of this sleeve. Outer Tie-Rod End Some outer tie-rod ends have a ball stud that is surrounded by an upper hardened steel bearing and a high-strength polymer lower bearing seat. The hardened steel upper bearing provides strength and durability, and the polymer lower bearing seat provides smooth rotation of the ball stud in the tie-rod end. An internal spring between the polymer lower bearing seat supplies self-adjusting action and constant tension on this seat. A seal in the upper part of the ball joint housing seals the ball stud to prevent contaminants from entering the tie-rod end. These tie-rod ends are installed on some original equipment manufacturer’s vehicles, and they are available as replacement tie-rod ends on most vehicles. Inner Tie-Rod End Some inner tie-rod ends contain a bolt and bushing. These tie-rod ends are threaded onto the rack. Since the rack is connected directly to the tie-rods, the rack replaces the center link in a parallelogram steering linkage. Some inner tie-rod ends have a mirror-finished ball and a high-strength polymer bearing to ensure low torque, minimal friction, and extended life. A hardened alloy steel rod extends from the ball to the outer tie-rod end and provides maximum strength and durability. Tie-Rod End Replacement Guideline: If you feel a bump in the steering when driving over road bumps or curbs, this might be due to worn tie rod ends or inner tie rods. Clicking noises during sudden steering movements can also be symptoms of a defective tie rod. In order to determine the exact cause and replace the defective tie rod, the car must be elevated with a vehicle lift in order to be examined more closely. This useful tip applies to the exchange of tie rod ends and inner tie rods, which together form the so-called tie rod. Picture(A) Note: Cleanliness is extremely important when working on the power steering. Incorrect work and contamination can lead to leakage and, in the worst case, to failure of the steering assistance. 1.Lift the vehicle and dismount the front axle wheels. 2.Spray the fastening nut of the tie rod end with rust remover and leave it on for a few minutes. Picture(B) 3.Dismount the front underride guard. Picture(C) 4.Loosen the fastening nut from the tie rod and remove it completely. 5.Remove the tie rod end from the steering knuckle using an appropriate ball joint separator. Picture(D) 6.Remove the clamp of the bellow on the steering gear. 7.Push the bellow towards the tie rod end. Picture(E) 8.Unscrew the inner tie rod from the rack. 9.Clean the sealing face of the bellow at the steering gear. Picture(F) 10.Clean the lug of the rubber contact surface of the ball joint in the steering knuckle. Note:Always use new self-locking nuts and bolts for a reliable repair. 11.Screw the new inner tie rod into the rack and tighten it with the tightening torque that has been specified by the vehicle manufacturer. Picture(G) 12.Mount the bellow and close the clamps with the appropriate special tool. Note:Incorrect mounting of the bellow can lead to corrosion of the rack: the steering gear starts leaking which can lead to a failure in the steering assistance. Picture(H) 13.Secure the ball joint in the steering knuckle and mount the nut. Please observe the tightening torque suggested by the vehicle manufacturer. Note:During mounting, the ball stud should not turn within the ball joint. This can cause damage inside the ball joint and can lead to early failure. Tip:Secure the ball stud against twisting with a suitable tool. Picture(I) 14.Mount the front underride guard. 15.Mount the front wheels and tighten them with the tightening torque recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. 16.Align the wheels and adjust them if necessary. Observe the vehicle manufacturer specifications. 17.Perform a test drive. Note:When performing the test drive, pay special attention to the handling while cornering and listen for possible noise emission. Frequently Asked Questions (1).How will I know that I have to renew my ball joint parts? Or replace them? If your ball joint fails, you will listen to a strange sound while driving. And that sound may help you to realize that your ball joint has failed and you have to renew them. (2).What happens if a ball joint breaks? When a ball joint breaks, you will hear a mysterious noise inside your car wheel. Your car tire will wear-out since your alignment will be broken, and you will feel the car getting out of control. If the ball joint breaks completely, it can be separated, and things can turn sour quickly. The wheel will stop being nice and can even steer you off the road. It can be serious. Broken ball joints will seriously affect the steering and suspension. It can even result in your wheel falling off the car. (3).Are worn ball joints dangerous? Yes, it can be quite dangerous. Because, a worn ball joint causes suspension damage, inspection failure, and breakage of related parts. It might make your front suspension come apart while driving, so the wheels move in whatever direction inertia takes them. That can lead to a fatal accident. (4).What happens if I don’t replace ball joints? If you don’t want to replace your ball joints, then get ready to experience some serious issues. The old ball joints cause mysterious clunking noise or drifting steering. Once they are worn-out, it will seriously affect your steering and suspension. However, you do not need to change the ball joints if it is new. (5).Do I need to grease new ball joints? I would say it will be a wise decision if you grease your new ball joints. At least I will always grease a new one after the installation. Greasing a new ball joint will make it stronger and extend its lifetime because there is a minimal amount of grease inside. I suggest you do so after the first installation. Follow the instruction card. (6).When to replace tie rod ends? Tie rods can last for years and years and some car owners may never have to replace them at all, but their longevity can be affected by certain driving conditions. Driving obstacles like potholes, poor road conditions or even minor accidents can cause tie rods to work incorrectly. Because of their importance and high usage, some people recommend having the tie rods inspected regularly. (7).Why should I get my tie rods inspected on a regular basis? If you don’t get your tie rods inspected on a regular basis, there are some warning signs to watch (and listen) for. If your vehicle pulls to one side while driving, or when braking, it’s possible that bad tie rods may be the culprit. Your vehicle’s tires will also show uneven wear on the inside and outside edge of the tire when there’s a tire rod issue. However, one of the most noticeable signs of tie rods going bad will be a knocking sound coming from the front end of the vehicle when you turn into a parking space, or some other low speed, tight turning situation. (8).Vibrations One of the first symptoms that your tie rods are damaged or breaking is that the steering wheel will vibrate slightly. This is especially prevalent when you are speeding up or turning. This happens because the steering wheel is losing its control over the tires, causing the steering wheel to shimmy as you drive. (9).Shaking As the tie rods become further damaged, you will start to notice that the car itself will start to shake. This happens because the tires may start to wobble without you having full control over them. Although you should take your car into a mechanic at the first sign of tie rod problems, if you experience your car shaking you could be at risk for serious tie rod damage-which can cause accidents. Take your car into a mechanic if you experience this tie rod symptom. (10).Wandering If your tie rods continue to go unchecked or unfixed, the rods can completely break. This can cause you to lose all control of your car, possibly resulting in an accident. When this occurs, the car will may “wander” as you drive. At this point, the steering wheel will have no control over the tires and the tires will start moving independently, causing the car to drift while you are driving. If this happens while you are on a freeway or busy road, you and others could be at serious risk of an accident. If you experience wandering, stop your car, call a two truck and take your car to the nearest mechanic. Item Specifics Placement on Vehicle : Front Type : Ball Joint Universal Fitment : No Included Hardware : Mounting Hardware Custom Bundle : Yes Interchange Part Number : ES2004S,ES2836RL,ES2838RL,K6477,K6447,K6335 Superseded Part Number : Control Arm Car,Suspension Arm,lower ball joints replacement OE/OEM Part Number : Ball Joints Kit Assembly and Steering Tie Rod Ends Linkages Cross Reference Part Number : Front Driver and Passenger Side Replacement Manufacturer Warranty : 10 Year Brand : Auto-brakemotive Manufacturer Part Number : TA83561601P Adjustable : Yes Material : Alloy Steel Kit or Single Part : Kit Greasable or Sealed : Greasable OE Spec or Performance/Custom : OE Spec Surface Finish : Polished, Rust Protected Quantity : 10Pcs Items Included : Tie Rod End, Ball Joint, Idler Pitman Arm PaymentShippingReturnsContact Us · PayPal preferred.You can open a Paypal account at www.paypal.com a. Import duties, taxes and charges are not included in the item price or shipping charges. These charges are the buyers responsibility. b. Please check with your country customs office to determine what these additional costs will be prior to bidding/buying. ①no information what is wrong with item ⑤ don’t like · Items that have been installed or altered are non-returnable but it must be reported to us immediately. · If you are satisfied with the product you received, wish you can leave us a feedback. All rights reserved. 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